For those of you that are still a little concerned about doing it yourself, here are my impressions, problems and solutions. I won't go into the removal of the stock manifold - it's pretty self- explanatory, this is more of a supplement to the Skunk. You might be able to save your old one, but if not it's nice to have one so you're prepared especially since they cost like $6 at the dealer. Take the time to clean up the TB with some throttlebody/carb cleaner. If your TB was anything like mine it was pretty oily and dirty and the cleaner and some compressed air did wonders. Be sure to have some coolant handy for a refill when you're done. I didn't drain the entire system, I just pulled off the coolant hose that runs from the passenger side of manifold and let it drain into a container for re- use later. I used several different types of wrenches to access the lower manifold bolts/nuts. They're a pain in the ass (especially with the IAB vacuum chamber under the manifold) so use up some of your worst bad language and get em out. The PCV system is different so make sure you have a piece of hose that is long enough (to be safe, have 1. Have several gear/hose clamps handy so you can tighten the PCV/EVAP hoses to the . It's not necessary on the 9. GSR so I stuck an inch and a half long piece of vacuum hose on it, plugged the hose with a small machine screw and clamped it down at both ends with small vacuum hose clamps. If you don't block it off you'll have a vacuum leak and that causes all kinds of idle/running issues tat you don't want. Again, this pipe is not necessary for the 9. GSR so I added about 3 inches of hose and capped it with a bolt and then clamped at both ends. You have to either buy new studs/bolts or re- use the original ones from the GSR manifold to mount the throttle body and fuel rail to the SK2 piece. Not difficult, you just need a couple of nuts (which you should have from when you removed the fuel rail and TB) to remove them. The IAB vacuum tank and solenoid no longer have a purpose so leave 'em on the bench. I capped off the electrical plug in the engine wiring harness and taped it out of the way. So by now you've got stock dual stage manifold removed and stripped, the TB and IAT mounted to the new IM, all the un- used vacuum and coolant hoses blocked and the old gasket material removed from the head. If you're using an OEM IM gasket you can jump to the next step. If you're using a Hondata/Outlaw/whatever thermal (thicker) gasket then read on. Since the thermal gasket is much thicker than the stock one you might find that the studs for the IM are too short to tighten the nuts. In particular the middle upper stud is a problem. In my case I removed the studs and used longer ones. I don't remember exactly how long they were, but I got ones that were 3/4. Not a big deal - I added about 5. I used the hole to run my PCV hose from the PCV valve to the point where I T'd it off for the EVAP purge valve. There's not a lot of options for mounting the purge valve so I zip- tied it out of the way near the top of the manifold. Ok, here's where I was most confused during the install. After doing lots of reading I was under the impression that you need to swap the GSR throttle pulley for a non- GSR one. I used the stock GSR pulley and throttle cable with very little difficulty. The throttle cable barely sticks up at all. Here's the method I used and it worked perfectly. The bracket is held on by two 1. DIY: Skunk2 Intake Manifold Install – 94-01 Integra GSR Applicable Years: 92-00 Honda Civic, 90-01 Acura Integra Difficulty: 2 out of 5 Estimated. DIY : How to replace the intake manifold gasket on a B18B1 integra LS. Register: New Thread: FAQ: Members List: Social Groups: Calendar: Mark Forums Read. DIY : How to replace the intake manifold gasket on a B18B1 integra LS. Loosen the top bolt and remove the lower bolt. Using the upper bolt as a pivot, move the upper point of the bracket toward the firewall and then re- install the lower bolt and re- tighten the upper bolt. You might have to fiddle with the bracket angle a little to clear the strut bar and the TB itself but it's pretty simple and works perfectly. This method cleared both the stock GSR strut bar and the OEM ITR bar as well. Finally, a note on intake piping and the SK2 manifold. My e. Bay short ram pipe and 8. I just got a skunk to manifold for my o1 gsr im having trouble. Find great deals on ebay for Acura Integra Intake Manifold. New listing ACURA INTEGRA GSR B18C1 OEM INTAKE MANIFOLD 96 97 98 99 00 01 OBD2. BLOX Intake Manifold Install for a 1995 Acura Integra GSR I am making this write-up because there is a real lack of quality information on the install. It seems no one on the net has made a how-to-install for this specific manifold, so without. Integra-R throttle cable bracket. If this is a first-time-removal of your GSR's intake manifold, you're. Intake Manifold Porting & Boring. Integra (1990-1993) GSR, LS; Integra (1994-2001) Type R, LS, GSR. Skunk2's Pro Series Intake Manifolds are proven performers, but we take them even further! SYNOPSIS This article covers the installation process of a Skunk2 GSR intake manifold (I/M) for the P72 B18C GSR head. High Performance, High Flow and Race Intake Manifolds and Big Bore Throttle Bodies from AEBS, BDL, JDM Honda, and JG Edelbrock. If you don't find it here, please check back with us. New products are added weekly! In fact, it works better with my Skunk. Your results may vary but it worked fine for me.
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